Thursday, 6 October 2011

The Robert Burns Hotel - Spanish food vs Scottish Poet

(degusted 19/9/2011)

Outside the RBH - Smith St. by night
"An unassumingly-named pub with Spanish food is a good twist, and serving tapas in a bar is a sensible pairing against which few would argue. As long as the quality and consistency of food stays high, this face-lifted Spaniard with the name of a Scottish poet might just do alright".





If you were to be asked –off the top of your head - what Spanish names come immediately to mind? What do you come up with –
Antonio Banderas…sure. 
Penelope Cruz… ahh yes. 
Salvador Dali… oh yeah, that “melted clock” bloke. 
Robert Burns? Excuse me – who was that last one?

The name associates more with a Scottish poet than with a tapas bar - perhaps that's why it took considerably longer for us to register that the Robert Burns Hotel (RBH) specialises in Spanish fare. Fear not, however, for if ever there was
a match made in that figment of peoples' imagination they call Heaven, it must be the serving of tapas and the (responsible) service of alcohol at the same location. And so it goes, from this day forth, the Robert Burns Hotel will, to us, now be duly known as the Spanish tapas pub on Smith street, in Collingwood, 'till death or cirrhosis do they part. We hope it will be a long and loving relationship.

The RBH has recently undergone renovations – and we attended on their re-opening night. With enthusiasm and the whiff of fresh paint still in the air, it was pleasing to be led into the dining area which still retained a lot of old-world charm, with tartans and timbers. None of the sterile-feeling 'white room' treatment here.

Service seemed to have a  little of the  first-night jitters (to be expected), suffice to say that only time will tell whether the service remains good. We did note an honest mistake with an order to a neighboring table, which we thought was handled excellently and in good-will by the staff. If anything is more important in service than doing things perfectly,  it's admitting when you were wrong and doing everything reasonable to rectify. In that regard, service was excellent.

Let's talk food.
We don’t normally look down the right hand side of the menu when ordering, as is not usually our prerogative to consider price – though we will take note if circumstances require it. For a restaurant, the prices here are really quite reasonable.

Please note that we had some difficulty taking good food pictures, because the others on our table could not keep their hands off the food for very long: within the 1/20th of a second of shutter opening and closing, hands were already making their way across table, forks at the ready, impaling food on the tines before we had a chance to snap again for better light or angles (a shame, because the dishes were great subjects)... Such is the state of play with delicious shared plates...

We degusted through a range of plates, most were suggestions by our friendly host, Jose (of the "no-way" variety, soft J).
Up first was some delicious and delicate slices of Jamon (36 months aged, no less) – (and again, soft J), then some Galician style octopus (Pulpo a feira). This consisted of sliced octopus, with sweet paprika on potato slices. The octopus pieces put up no resistance when challenged with our incisors. So soft and delicious– it was almost a shame to dilute the octopus goodness with the potato!

Pulpo a feira - Galician style octopus (w/ sweet paprika on potato)




There is not much that can be said to convey the flavour of those delicious garlic and chilli prawns (Gambas al ajillo), except that they were not overwhelmingly 'garlicky' (good) – and were cooked to a perfect point where a little pop was the reward for each bite (great). If you're on your first date, although the garlic treatment was restrained, it would be still probably be wise that BOTH of you eat these, so that there's no one-sided issue of garlic breath to tarnish the first kiss..

Gambas al ajillo - Garlic and chilli prawns




The piquillo peppers stuffed with ox tail (Pimientos rellenos de rabo de torto) were up next. The tail was cooked to a state of “fall-apart goodness”, and the little peppers -  each shaped like little love-hearts – were plump and juicy. It was a delicious, rich dish, but we ordered a second plate, in evidence of the enjoyment thereof. This is the rustic kind of dish that makes you feel warm and cozy – just like grandma might have made..

Pimientos rellenos de rabo de torto (see also the pic below)

Individually, we love these heart-shaped piquillo peppers stuffed with ox tail.





Grilled baby calamari on onion and green peppers.
Grilled baby calamari on a bed of onion and capsicum (Txipis pelayo) were spot-on; flavour and texture were divine. Soft and tender, each bite was a delight. On a side note... The grilled baby calamari is a risk when you're doing these at home on the BBQ – you never quite know when they're done, and you risk the chewy rubbery discomfort of having to eat through half a kilo of them (does it sound like we're talking from experience!?). Good thing then, that the cooks at RBH got the cooking of the little 8-legged critters down to a fine art.





What Spanish feast is complete without the paella? The mixed seafood paella (paella de marisco) that we degusted was full of flavour, but lacked a little on the one thing we love – that crunchy, crispy bit of the rice on the bottom. We should point out that it takes a fair amount of time to make a tray of paella, and if this was the only dish you were ordering, you'd have to expect to wait a little while.. Perhaps it was the opening night, or a rush or paella orders that caused ours to have been found wanting for another 5 or 10 minutes to crisp up. As it was, however, the seafood in the dish was cooked pretty well (the mussels perhaps a little too much). The flavours were good and we'd order it again, (after we try their squid ink paella, which would be next on our “to-try” list).

Paella de marisco - Mixed seafood paella


The last of the mains was a grilled seafood platter for two (Parillada de pascados y mariscos). They say it's for two – it's certainly priced for two (price varies with market prices), but a hungry lone diner could conquer this dish with not so much as a slight hesitation (it might require a loosening of the top button on your jeans, however..). Treating it as one of a number of shared dishes though, this was a reasonable size. The fish was impeccable – slight char on the outside from the grill giving that lovely smokey flavour but not overdone, and the other seafood cooked spot-on (better than in the paella). This would be perfect for a carb-conscious eater. In this regard the Degusters are split. One vote seafood grill, one vote paella.

Grilled fish & seafood. Marvellous.



The desserts we tried were obviously pre-prepared (a creme brulee, and a baked cheesecake slice), both totally acceptable to have been prepped in advance, which should ensure consistency and timeliness to deliver to the table.  The Spanish style cheesecake with mint and blueberry marmalade was inspiring. The mild mintiness from the mint leaves through the cheesecake was very subtle but delicious and the marmalade was the perfect way to let one dial-in the desired level of sweetness. Needless to say we used up all the marmalade!
Cheesecake with mint and blueberry marmalade


The vanilla bean creme brulee with caramel sauce was nice enough, and the presentation pretty good. We'd happily accept the same again, but admittedly not the best we've ever had (we are comparing to chefs-hat restaurants) - but nothing to complain about, either.

Vanilla bean creme brulee with caramel sauce



To sum up..
There are so many food options around the Collingwood / Fitzroy precinct that it will take something special to stand out and shine. An unassumingly-named pub with Spanish food is a good twist, and serving tapas in a bar is a sensible pairing against which few would argue. As long as the quality and consistency of food stays high, this face-lifted Spaniard with the name of a Scottish poet might just do alright. Only time will tell if the locals agree.



Notes:
-Of note, but not eaten were the availability of a few Rabbit dishes – one from the grill, the other in a paella. This oft-underused meat is a pleasant inclusion on the menus, and something we’d try next time.
-Child (family)-friendly, but no play area for the kids.
-Look on the back of the menu for a lovely map of Spain to plan your next European adventure!
-Not up for a restaurant meal? No worries - grab a seat at the front bar and order some pecking fodder.

((Late Edit)) -A neat little write-up appears in Broadsheet Melbourne - whose photographer was visiting the same night as us! (HUGE Cudos to anyone who finds The Degusters in broadsheet's pics)..



Rating:  Nom(x2)
Meh                      It’ll Do                   Nom(x3)                              Must go back!
 

Done and Degusted @ the Robert Burns Hotel
-Jamon (aged 36 months)
-Galician style octopus (Pulpo a feira)
-Grilled baby calamari on a bed of onion and capsicum were spot-on (Txipis pelayo)
-Garlic and chilli prawns (Gambas al ajillo)
-Piquillo peppers stuffed with ox tail (Pimientos rellenos de rabo de torto)
-Mixed seafood paella (Paella de marisco)
-Grilled seafood platter for two (Parillada de pascados y mariscos)
-Spanish style cheesecake with mint and blueberry marmalade
-Vanilla bean creme brulee with caramel sauce


Robert Burns Hotel on Urbanspoon

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